Calendar winter... it is snowing outside, and I have a view to the woods. True cine-idyll. Just another common winter for this part of Croatia, for Zagreb, when snow creates a traffic jam, and when you don't leave your house unless you really really have to. That's what must happen to make me finally write few words on this truly amazing town.

One third of my entire life I lived in Zagreb, which has grown so dear to me what will probably be noticable in the text that follows. Zagreb is the capital of Croatia, while among people common term is the metropolis. According to the statistics from July 2004 Croatia has 4,496,869 inhabitants, out of which to Zagreb and its surroundings falls over a million people. You can reach this town by air, bus, car, railway, common means of transport for every European town. What is genuinely uncommon is that the airport as well as the main railway station leave the impression you came to a third world country, but unfortunately that is the very impression you'll get by laying your eyes on these buildings. True, great efforts have been invested into renovation of the facade of the railway building, but my humble opinion is that Zagreb will have to wait a while to get something modern. Let's assume you are headed to Zagreb by train. When you get out of the railway station edifice walls, you'll find yourself among a mass of people at the place that lets you grasp in one glimpse the intersection of all layers of the Croatian society. Low profile people, beggars, bums, those who constantly ask around, refugees who came to live here during the past decade, driven by the war to come here to seek for a better life. Students in a constant hurry, mothers and grandmothers who patiently wait for the tram carrying full shopping bags around and contemplating what would be the answer to the question if it would be better next year. Classic scene in big cities...

In places like this naturally there is a taxi service. Actually it depends more on a culture of the nation, there are places they drag you for the sleeve and offer you a ride, while in Zagreb, as well as all over Croatia it is not the case. Here you must look for one, call for one and seek a ride. Of couse, when you need it the most, not a single one shows up. And now advice. If you have to have to, and noone is coming to get you and if it is your first time in Zagreb, then take a cab. But you probably wouldn't fancy cash peel off so warm recommendation stay away from taxis for this sport is TERRIBLY EXPENSIVE! I still don't understand why they cannot find a role model in neighbouring Slovenia where for instance in Maribor taxi ride became so common and cheap that most people take them instead of buses.

Besides being the main driving force of the economy Zagreb offers a colorfull night life, in winter of course. During summers it is almost empty because continental Croatia simply moves to the coast and fun doesn't stop before end of August. But in winter, numerous bars, several dozens of clubs, number of modern cosy cinemas, theaters and places alike are the guarantee you can have an extra good time at any time of the day. If you are born talkable, you just go out and you'll meet different people, they like to get to know new faces, most people talk English or perhaps another language. If you have company, even better!

This is male section of the story. Croatian people are by nature conservative, girls not so open for conversation, not willing to meet new faces at all. Far opposite from the Caribbean. Then again it is at first sight only. When you finally start chatting, it is a lot easier... Men are open, but if you are around when a she starts to hit on a him, please let me know at once.

Zagreb itself is well connected throughout the town with the tram network, which is even more spread over the past years. Quarters are numerous and rather different. There is the old, Upper town, which is the center itself but the oldest part of Zagreb too. Many narrow little streets, houses that compell with its age and looks. Croatian Parliament is here as well, government offices and other institutions. This town parts comprises almost entire Croatian history so if you have such interest, you have my recommendation to visit any of the several museums. Easy walk downwards brings you to the Ban Jelačić Square, the most renown Croatian square. This is where the longest street in Zagreb starts, so calles ILICA, full of boutiques and various shops. River Sava quietly flows through this town and divides it in two parts. There are several places for night fun just by the river or at the river itself. Most student villiges are situated there so the visitors are mostly students, but forget about dancing or mingling. If you have no friends here, there is not much to find, but if you prefer to stay in a small smoky places where you don't hear your own thoughts, then this is just for you.

One pan-Croatian custom will higly probable catch most tourists by surprise, especially those who live on the other side of the 'big marsh'... Croatians find normal to, in the middle of the working day, take a half an hour pause, have a cup of coffee with their friends, colleagues. It is a sort of mental relaxation, occasion to talk things over, and even though you may sit with a colleage that you have been watching the whole morning it looks like finally now Therefore don't be surprised to see so many people sitting out there drinking their drinks, coffees and it is not a weekend. That is how they function, I recommend just to take it as such and enjoy!

If you happen to be true chance traveller and you are in Zagreb for the first time, with no soul you know, you have few very good hotels at disposal in the sole centre and pick the one with the best price. If you are looking for hostels, we can find few. Just to sleep over, they are okay. Do not worry about the food. At almost every corner you can see some fast food really cheap and the food is great. Many restaurants offer tasteful domestic specialties with colour and taste. If you have read the Virgin Islands and Barbados guides, you'll remember what did I say for the world 'famous' food chains... but this is another story. Subway here and for instance in San Juan, two worlds. Quick and serving people is the thing that thrills you after a year and a half spent all around the Caribbean. People cannot imagine it here.

To keep your dearest unpdated with your persona travel adventures, you can easily find the Internet connection. There are dozen online caffe bars in the centre. Service price is the same all over town and the speeds are okay. Croatian currency is KUNA, and in case you have other currencies, you can change them easily, almost every street has money exchange.

If you are into sports, love to unlimber, ski or you simply enjoy being in the nature, Zagreb is the right location. Sljeme is the name of the local hill, quite popular that rises above the town as a keeper. If you like skiing and you came in winter, Sljeme has the best view to the town and the best ski coast to slide down the brae. Walking there is nice, relax your eyes on beautiful rich houses but one certainly wouldn't expect less in the town part known as the elite one.

Few words at the end. Zagreb is a European town. It has all you may need, and offers a lot more than that. To describe it, believe me, it is not that easy therefore I will let the picture in the gallery tell you the stories of their own... But one thing is for sure. Whenever you come here, you will be so heartfully welcomed but you'll know that when you ar eabout to leave. You will know it was unforgettable... Don't miss it for the world!